The main road into "Tibiao proper" turns off the National Hwy. about a mile from our house, and it goes about 1/2 mile from the hwy. to the town square area. The typhoon had been from about 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. on Friday; as of mid- afternoon on Saturday, there was still a lot of debris and downed wires to be cleared out. Only the smallest vehicles could make it through the area until sometime on Sunday.
In Tibiao, the multi- purpose covered area, where tricycle taxis gather on market days, was one of many structures which lost parts - or all - of their roofs. Six months later, this one still awaits repairs.
Through the whole swath cut by the typhoon, communications were knocked out; some, like the main fiber-optic cable for TV and internet, were not replaced for months. But 3 days after the typhoon, someone discovered a good "hot spot" for cell-phone reception near Barbaza, about 10 miles from Tibiao. Overnight, on a deserted stretch of Highway, this tent village of cell-phone vendors sprang up, perhaps about 30 tents with portable gen-erators and chargers; food vendors, access-ory vendors. We went there on Tuesday and were able to send text messages to a few people in the USA; our first contact since the storm. "Tattoo" which you can see on the tent-canopies, is the name of a wireless "air-card" and cell-phone provider here. Their service doesn't work very well in Tibiao, our area, for lack of enough towers or whatever infrastructure.
(NOTE tricycle-taxis in foreground; article about them is available from February 2013; the archive navigation at upper right will get you there pretty quickly)
Six days after the typhoon, on Thursday, I rode with missionary Mark Moses, heading north along the National highway for about 50 miles to evaluate the immediate relief needs of people there, and to look at damages to church buildings and plan for reconstruction materials. Here is the link to the Google Map of our area. **(see below) From Tibiao, we passed through Culasi, Sebaste, and Pandan to a place near the Libertad border, just where the coast of Panay island turns and heads west. All of these places were in the hard-hit
swath, but west of Pandan there was almost a "line" where the damage was suddenly much less. The photo above is near the main square in Pandan. At left, the family was in their house during the typhoon when the entire roof blew off. Mark and the team left relief food supplies at each place we went, and made lists of needed repair supplies and plans for how to deliver them.
This small church building at Pandan was one of the places we went that first Thursday, Nov. 14. This photo is from one week later, Nov. 21, as the needed lumber is out in front of the building. On that day, we visited all the same sites as the week before, and we made contact at one point with the "jeepney" vehicle which was chartered to haul the supplies from San Jose. (see posting from January 2013 about jeepneys. Blog archive navigation is at your upper right.)
Back at Tibiao, this 30-foot tree had fallen at the beach near our relatives' place. The bend in its trunk, resting on the ground, created a 15-foot springy-pole for the kids to bounce on; the little guy nearest is about 8-feet off the ground. I have a too-blurry photo which shows more than a dozen kids all at the same time, riding on the tree. It was there for 5 or 6 weeks before someone got around to removing it.
I was quite impressed with this man's skill, as he balanced between the ladder and the roof and managed to make powerful, accurate hits with a machete left-handed for about 15 minutes. I noted later when he was working on the ground, that he is right-handed. There was very little special equipment to work with, but the people here are expert improvisers who do amazing things with simple tools, routinely. Note that even the ladder is home-made from bamboo lashed together.
Long-term effects: one of the long-term effects of the typhoon will be its impact on bamboo usage and availability. At left is an example of mature, good quality bamboo. Note the thickness of the "walls;" this solid bamboo takes perhaps 5 years to grow, and in use it may last a number of years before termites and rot destroy it. Bamboo is a vitally important material here; many people can't afford any other material to provide their housing.
Here is a comparison which shows immature poor quality bamboo of perhaps 3 years' growth. Before Typhoon Yolanda, there was already a shortage of mature bamboo in our area; since then, a lot of immature bamboo has been cut of necessity to build housing. Big problem: this immature bamboo will rot out much sooner than mature stuff, and it also will not be available as mature bamboo 2 or 3 years from now - a "vicious cycle" of shortage.
The same kind of supply problems will occur with other vital materials. Many thousands of trees were destroyed, which would have provided lumber and fuel for sometime in the future. I could include photos of firewood stacks and slabs of tree-trunk stacked, but I think you already know what those things look like. In our post-typhoon cleanup we generated lots of these materials and we are blessed to be able to save some of it for use in the next year or two; many of our neighbors a few hundred feet away have no such opportunity.
Relief supplies were in very small quantities for the first couple weeks - but about 3 to 4 weeks after the typhoon, government and NGO trucks began arriving quite regularly and distributing goods at "barangay" (means neighborhood) halls to residents who were listed by the barangay officials. This huge "straight truck" had been chartered by an NGO to deliver relief goods; this occasion seems to be in January, and such distributions have only recently tapered off.
Meantime, life had gotten pretty well back to "normal" for us, with a fairly constant flow of daily routines mixed with small projects to hopefully improve our situation in a little at a time. Our poultry flock increased, and we had small successes with vegetable raising. We waited what seemed like forever for the main communication cable to be repaired - but I did sometimes find a use for the internet cable which runs between houses on our property.
Quick flashback look: About January 1, 2013 I was standing about 6 feet farther to the right, from where the above photo was taken. The bamboo post that the screen- door leans on is the same corner post of the bamboo house above - - barely started in construction then; and our house, shown above, is not even begun; its excavation work began about January 14, and we "moved in" on July 4, 2013.
There's room here to cover a few other short topics. I've made quite a few photos of various occupations I see nearby, and will post a few of the ones which I think will seem novel to American readers.
In a farm-field surrounded by woods and brush, a mysterious structure is built. It's circular, about 12 feet in diameter and 5 feet tall, and resembles photos I've seen of the "Hogan" which some Native American tribes build. But it isn't a house; it's a tightly-stacked pile of hardwood branches, tightly covered with large green leaves like banana leaves. This is set on fire and controlled carefully for several days to prevent too much oxygen from getting to the fuel - so that it will smolder and slowly be converted to charcoal. The process seems to be a mixture of science and art; I don't have the language skills to get much detail, but this is another vital material which is used in our area. Charcoal burns slower and puts out a much steadier heat than firewood; and, it doesn't require a special stove or tanks like propane. Our household uses quantities of firewood and charcoal daily for cooking which would otherwise consume lots of much-more expensive propane. Charcoal production is banned at the moment because of over-harvesting of hardwood, but this ban was apparently overlooked for a while after the typhoon, as lots of downed hardwood was available, so on several occasions I saw charcoal being produced in this manner.
Hand-made equipment is in use at a lot of businesses here. I've made photos of quite a few improvised production machines, and here are a few.
Huge wire coils apparently salvaged from some industrial site are set into a rack and seem to be adjusted up and down with a "peg through hole" setup. This is an improvised arc-welder; industrial made machines use an adjustment jack-screw to move coils. The size of those coils suggests this would be a an immensely powerful welder, despite its rustic appearance; I would think keeping its
output DOWN enough to be useful would be the main concern in operating it. I've seen more than one welding machine like this one nearby.
The location of this switches- and- plug combination amused me. It was on the public office- wall of our local electrical cooperative utility company.
(NOTE tricycle-taxis in foreground; article about them is available from February 2013; the archive navigation at upper right will get you there pretty quickly)
Six days after the typhoon, on Thursday, I rode with missionary Mark Moses, heading north along the National highway for about 50 miles to evaluate the immediate relief needs of people there, and to look at damages to church buildings and plan for reconstruction materials. Here is the link to the Google Map of our area. **(see below) From Tibiao, we passed through Culasi, Sebaste, and Pandan to a place near the Libertad border, just where the coast of Panay island turns and heads west. All of these places were in the hard-hit
swath, but west of Pandan there was almost a "line" where the damage was suddenly much less. The photo above is near the main square in Pandan. At left, the family was in their house during the typhoon when the entire roof blew off. Mark and the team left relief food supplies at each place we went, and made lists of needed repair supplies and plans for how to deliver them.
Back at Tibiao, this 30-foot tree had fallen at the beach near our relatives' place. The bend in its trunk, resting on the ground, created a 15-foot springy-pole for the kids to bounce on; the little guy nearest is about 8-feet off the ground. I have a too-blurry photo which shows more than a dozen kids all at the same time, riding on the tree. It was there for 5 or 6 weeks before someone got around to removing it.
I was quite impressed with this man's skill, as he balanced between the ladder and the roof and managed to make powerful, accurate hits with a machete left-handed for about 15 minutes. I noted later when he was working on the ground, that he is right-handed. There was very little special equipment to work with, but the people here are expert improvisers who do amazing things with simple tools, routinely. Note that even the ladder is home-made from bamboo lashed together.
Long-term effects: one of the long-term effects of the typhoon will be its impact on bamboo usage and availability. At left is an example of mature, good quality bamboo. Note the thickness of the "walls;" this solid bamboo takes perhaps 5 years to grow, and in use it may last a number of years before termites and rot destroy it. Bamboo is a vitally important material here; many people can't afford any other material to provide their housing.
Here is a comparison which shows immature poor quality bamboo of perhaps 3 years' growth. Before Typhoon Yolanda, there was already a shortage of mature bamboo in our area; since then, a lot of immature bamboo has been cut of necessity to build housing. Big problem: this immature bamboo will rot out much sooner than mature stuff, and it also will not be available as mature bamboo 2 or 3 years from now - a "vicious cycle" of shortage.
The same kind of supply problems will occur with other vital materials. Many thousands of trees were destroyed, which would have provided lumber and fuel for sometime in the future. I could include photos of firewood stacks and slabs of tree-trunk stacked, but I think you already know what those things look like. In our post-typhoon cleanup we generated lots of these materials and we are blessed to be able to save some of it for use in the next year or two; many of our neighbors a few hundred feet away have no such opportunity.
Relief supplies were in very small quantities for the first couple weeks - but about 3 to 4 weeks after the typhoon, government and NGO trucks began arriving quite regularly and distributing goods at "barangay" (means neighborhood) halls to residents who were listed by the barangay officials. This huge "straight truck" had been chartered by an NGO to deliver relief goods; this occasion seems to be in January, and such distributions have only recently tapered off.
Meantime, life had gotten pretty well back to "normal" for us, with a fairly constant flow of daily routines mixed with small projects to hopefully improve our situation in a little at a time. Our poultry flock increased, and we had small successes with vegetable raising. We waited what seemed like forever for the main communication cable to be repaired - but I did sometimes find a use for the internet cable which runs between houses on our property.
Quick flashback look: About January 1, 2013 I was standing about 6 feet farther to the right, from where the above photo was taken. The bamboo post that the screen- door leans on is the same corner post of the bamboo house above - - barely started in construction then; and our house, shown above, is not even begun; its excavation work began about January 14, and we "moved in" on July 4, 2013.
There's room here to cover a few other short topics. I've made quite a few photos of various occupations I see nearby, and will post a few of the ones which I think will seem novel to American readers.
In a farm-field surrounded by woods and brush, a mysterious structure is built. It's circular, about 12 feet in diameter and 5 feet tall, and resembles photos I've seen of the "Hogan" which some Native American tribes build. But it isn't a house; it's a tightly-stacked pile of hardwood branches, tightly covered with large green leaves like banana leaves. This is set on fire and controlled carefully for several days to prevent too much oxygen from getting to the fuel - so that it will smolder and slowly be converted to charcoal. The process seems to be a mixture of science and art; I don't have the language skills to get much detail, but this is another vital material which is used in our area. Charcoal burns slower and puts out a much steadier heat than firewood; and, it doesn't require a special stove or tanks like propane. Our household uses quantities of firewood and charcoal daily for cooking which would otherwise consume lots of much-more expensive propane. Charcoal production is banned at the moment because of over-harvesting of hardwood, but this ban was apparently overlooked for a while after the typhoon, as lots of downed hardwood was available, so on several occasions I saw charcoal being produced in this manner.
Hand-made equipment is in use at a lot of businesses here. I've made photos of quite a few improvised production machines, and here are a few.
Huge wire coils apparently salvaged from some industrial site are set into a rack and seem to be adjusted up and down with a "peg through hole" setup. This is an improvised arc-welder; industrial made machines use an adjustment jack-screw to move coils. The size of those coils suggests this would be a an immensely powerful welder, despite its rustic appearance; I would think keeping its
output DOWN enough to be useful would be the main concern in operating it. I've seen more than one welding machine like this one nearby.
The location of this switches- and- plug combination amused me. It was on the public office- wall of our local electrical cooperative utility company.
Quite a large band-saw is made from galvan-ized water pipe for framing, with 24-inch wooden main-wheels made from laminated thicknesses of plywood. Standard industrial-machinery parts are used creatively for blade-guides and drive- train.
A heavy-duty wood lathe features a vehicle transmission as its headstock. The "rails" are made of heavy 2 x 10 lumber and it can turn pieces 8- feet- long. The project in place appears to be some sort of large hardwood pulley, like on a ship's rigging. Just beyond the lathe are two hand-made table saws, which have 12-inch and 16- inch blades. All of these machines are turned by a long shaft which runs on the floor behind them, and power is supplied by a 12- horsepower diesel engine of the same sort which powers the walk-behind farm tractors here.
An occupation in our area is whatever a person can find to make some pesos ("bucks" would be the USA expression.) When Bernadette was offered our house- property 12 or so years ago, one reason she immediately "grabbed it" is that it is located on the elementary school road. She saw the potential of snack-vending to the kids and other pedestrians who pass by in great numbers daily. When daughter Thea visited for a few weeks near the end of school- year, we happened on a supply of jicama ("hick- uh
muh") - which is pretty familiar now in USA groceries - radish-like flesh, "puckery" sweet grapefruit- like flavor. We got many, many sacks in a 2-week period. These were cleaned, sliced thinly, and placed in plastic vending-bags; with a little sea-salt on the side, they sold in hundreds of units per day, at our front gate. Thea's income from this short-term venture was some days near-double the working-man's wage in our area! Imagine living in a place where "free enterprise" is not quashed by regulations - - - - Thea's fingerprint ridges were dissolved by her handling the acidic tubers - - which made me wonder if some useful "free enterprise" could be found for a temporarily fingerprint-less person (insert here, smiley-winky face.).
I've tried a few new things with this posting. I thought the left-side/ right-side format would look more interesting than a straight vertical row of photos. However, the photos must be much smaller to make this happen, so details are harder to see, and I also had a very difficult time getting the text to wrap around the photos - the word-processor part of the program was extremely resistant to doing that. I welcome comments as to whether the finished result is any improvement over the previous format; right now I'm pretty much inclined to retreat to the single-column of larger photos. Sometime later I'll experiment with putting comparison photos side-by-side - but the photos would have to be quite small; this program doesn't allow custom-sizing photos and inserts, but offers 4 or 5 "stock" sizes to choose from.
Another new attempt is that it's the first time I've tried to place a webiste "link" in the blog - the link to the Google map site. As this that I'm working on is only a "draft" blog, the link is not operable; I'm eager to get this actually published so I can see if it works OK. (**NOTE After publishing, I found that the link given opens the map near Pandan, not Tibiao. You can "drag scroll" the map up, to get to Tibiao, or click the "search " icon which is at the upper left of the map and that will also get you to Tibiao).
In the last blog posted before the typhoon, I showed about half of the rice-harvest-and process which puts food on peoples' tables here. I expect to show the rest of the rice process sometime soon, plus several other topics that I have planned on a list here, and a large number of "miscellaneous" photos from time to time.
Meanwhile we hope that your days are blessed and prosperous, and that you occasionally have time to reflect on the wonder of simply being alive and passing through all of life's varied experiences.
Have a great day!
Tim and Bernadette Larson, Philippines
Wow, TJ. I've been here in the Philippines for more than 20 years and had never seen how charcoal was made or knew the difference between mature and immature bamboo. I always thought it was a matter of length, not thickness. The damage from the typhoon will continue to be felt for years to come. You have excellent observation skills.
ReplyDeleteI just seem to be in the right place at the right time for some things! Having been around for the construction of the nipa house on our property was when I learned about bamboo quality (how to avoid being bamboozled); sometime long years ago I had read somewhere about charcoal-making in another place, perhaps in a historical novel about India or Africa - - but I'd never actually SEEN it until this last year-or-so; may not see it again anytime soon around here. Thanks for the day-trip on Wednesday! I always meet new and interesting people when I'm out like that - - and life-long I've been used to getting out and ramblin' around a lot more than I am able to do here.
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