A year ago today, I waited with moderate concern for the arrival of the super-typhoon "Yolanda." Perhaps if I could have foreseen all of the effects on our life here, in the aftermath of this enormous storm, my concern would have been greater.
I should mention that typhoon "Yolanda" is everywhere else called Haiyan. It seems that the Philippine Government considers it necessary to call every weather event by a different name than the rest of the world. This has the benefit of providing employment for whoever has the responsibility of selecting the extra set of names.
Two years ago today, we were one week short of arriving in the Philippines to begin our retirement adventure. Our arrival date, November 15, 2012, meant that we were just approaching our one-year "retrospective" (2013) when a fair amount of our little "world" was blown away by the typhoon.
This is the first house which we had built here in about 2007,
five years before we were able to move here. It looked just
about like this until a month ago, when we were able to do
some painting and dressing-it-up. In our immediate little
street area, about half the houses were similar a year ago,
and half were more substantial.
But within 100 yards of us, on the "beach" side of the National
Highway, the type of housing shifts from modest concrete- to
quite a few "native" houses constructed of bamboo and local
lumber. This particular house always impressed me because
it was carefully maintained and very neat - - the "cottage with a
little picket fence" effect. The always- warm temperatures here
mean that this type of home is adequate most of the time; a
little like the cabins in a state or national park in the USA.
The vast difference between the ooh- soo- neat little cottage
and our place shows on the morning after the typhoon. Our
place would still look almost exactly the same as "photo number
one," but the huge power of 185 mile-per-hour winds had pretty
much flattened anything which wasn't reinforced concrete.
My intention for this posting is not to present lots of "before and after" coverage of the typhoon, however. It seems to me that it might be interesting to reflect a little about how quickly things can change at times - in a few hours, in the case of the typhoon's impact - and how slowly things seem to happen at other times, as in our personal adaptation to living here in the Philippines. There has been a lot to learn; mostly in the "affective" areas for me - in adjusting my attitude away from a sense of urgency about completing hoped-for projects, and in learning to appreciate each blessing and convenience which comes into our lives.
It is the coincidence of the two events being almost exactly a year apart which seems to "overlay" them in my mind.
Most structures in our area are now replaced or repaired. In the eastern part of our island (named "Panay") the damage was much more severe to concrete - and all other - structures as Haiyan made its first landfall from that direction and passed 100 miles overland and through mountains before we received our visit. In that area, there are large sections of concrete-block walls still missing from buildings - but people have reinforced and re-roofed, and are mostly living "as usual." We personally were blessed to have only minor damages to our metal roofing, easily repaired.
The Philippines in general is in a good period economically; I saw on a chart recently that the economic growth rate here is at 7.2% - only one or two other Asian countries which were listed have better economies. For non-economists, I mention that I seem to remember that 4% growth is considered pretty healthy. There is a building boom happening here which exceeds mere replacement of damaged infrastructure. In the last year, for example, the number of gasoline stations in the 120-mile area we frequent appears to have nearly doubled; and I don't think there was any shortage of stations before. (And in the last few months, the fuel prices have gone down something-like 60- cents per gallon). (Gasoline here is about $4.65 per gallon) (We're selective about when and where we drive)
There are lots of topics I could type to you - and I'm tempted to try to explain things with words, here! But I am already pretty far beyond my usual "text - to - photo" ratio I think, so I'll begin putting up some photos and will try to organize them around subject-matter.
First, I haven't systematically put up photos of our place here in Malabor (neighborhood's name) Tibiao (municipality), on this Blog. I have sent a few in e-mails to some of my readers, though. In-town lots here are usually small; we have a "main" lot which is 40 x 80 feet, and a separated lot 40 x 60 which we use for a poultry yard.
Standing near the middle of our 80- foot street frontage, the
older house shown also in "photo number one" above now
has its paint. job in place. This house has our kitchen and
living rooms, plus 2 bedrooms and a bath.
The middle of the lot has a patio-like kitchen behind the
vehicle, and a water-storage tower and small bamboo
building just to the left.
Shifting view to the farthest left, the west end of our lot has
the hewer house, completed in July 2013; this has a workshop,
a master bedroom- with- bath, and some storage space. Getting
street-view photos is a little challenge, as the street is narrow,
perhaps 12- or 14- feet wide, paved with concrete 8- feet wide.
My purpose in showing the above is to try to give you a little sense of what it is like to live in a small neighborhood here. We are well blessed to be pretty comfortable and secure here; but as mentioned above, I have learned to appreciate things I wouldn't look twice at in the USA, a few of which I'll show.
Chain-link fencing wire is widely available here;
galvanized pipe for posts is not hard to get. For
any OTHER fencing material, such as brackets and
adapters you'd get from a hardware store in the US,
you're pretty much on your own. Make them from-
scratch. We needed a rolling gate-panel in front of
the vehicle, and this shows the fabrication of the
nose-wheel of the gate. I show these 2 or 3 photos
before-paint so details are easier to see.
Similarly, tail-wheels, angle-iron tracks, and flat-
metal "u"-clamps were all formed by hand and welded
as necessary. This fence is painted and complete
in the farther-above photos. (Looks better!)
You're on your own if you need a swing-gate latch,
too. We just used the chain- around- the- post for
a long time. Then one day I noticed a broken pop-
rivet tool lying around, and "presto," its handle
became a nice spring-loaded latch bar.
My intent is to illustrate some "little stuff" you just would hardly think about in the USA. In the case of the fence, with "bought ready-made" components it might have gone up in a day or
two. "Inventing" and fabricating the items brought the project to about 10 days. Kind of a pain in the neck at times, but - hey! - I'm retired, my time is my own, and I mostly like tinker-ing around with things.
Items like doors and other fittings for a house are all made-to-
order by local tradespeople. I have seen no "off the shelf" screen
doors, for example. Years ago I saw a door with false-Victorian
looking corner blocks - made with simple hole-saw and drill-bit
work. My door ended up a little "busier" looking than I had
thought, but still acceptable. (One description offered was
"cheesy." My response was neutral.) (Will anyone pick up
that "double- quip?" I wonder - - -)
This Suzuki "double-cab" truck has been with us for about 2
months. Many of these come into the Philippines as "Japan
surplus" in very good condition; the double-cabs like this one
arrive as mini-vans and are converted here by having the
back section "chopped" into a pickup- bed. It has proven
to be a real handy and practical little vehicle. It checked out
at about 33 miles-per-gallon one time, and I'm told that at
least in theory it could get around 40 m.p.g. And it's peppy
and fun to drive.
"Technical" notes; it has a 3- cyl. 660 cc. engine, water cooled, "pancake mounted" above the rear axle. The radiator is at the front - meaning very long hoses/ pipes. There is a standard-looking transaxle, a manual 5- speed. The engine-weight over the back axle is roughly equal to the 2 passengers weight over the front axle, so it has a nicely balanced "feel" when driving. Comparison: My Honda motorcycle was a 750 cc. Most sub-compact U.S. cars have engines about 1,500 cc. and larger. Our Buicks were 3,800 cc. That is why the gutsy performance of this tiny engine surprises me.
Side-note about license plates: here, the "tags" are not made until a vehicle is registered and assigned its number; then, they are made- to- order and may take a few months to
arrive. Many vehicles drive around with handmade temporary tags.
NOTE: I nearly always convert measures to U.S.A. standards, for the sake of my readers. But here in the Philippines, all measurements are metric. The car's actual fuel usage was 13.8 km per liter, for example. The money is pesos, and I usually convert that to dollars so
Americans can get a sense of what things cost here. It happens by coincidence that just for now the peso- per- dollar rate makes prices of pesos- per- kilogram almost exactly equal the price in pennies- per- pound - - - 100 pesos- per- kilo is almost exactly one dollar per pound.
And, OUR beef is costing about 220. (but 220 pesos is a day's pay, maybe more, for 2.2 pounds of meat)
My mention of the money, above, reminded me that I have
not explained about Philippine money in this blog. Here is
what the coins look like. The lower-left is a Peso coin, the
basic "unit" here. We use 40-per-dollar as a general estimate
of peso-value, making it roughly 2.5 cents USA. Right now
the rate is actually between 44 and 45, which is a fairly large
difference, 10- percent. The other 2 coins in the lower
row are 5-peso and 10-peso. The upper row are 5-, 10-,
and 25- "sentima" (means cent) coins. For all practical
purposes they are nearly worthless, and many businesses
round-off their prices to even pesos - remember, two pesos
is less than 5-cents USA, at this moment. The red object is
a coke-bottle cap used for size-comparison. The peso-coin
is slightly larger than an American nickel. I had thought
that the pesos were probably stainless steel, but one day I
found a couple of them stuck to a magnet.
Philippine paper money (no photo, sorry!) is normal-looking notes in pastel colors which range from light-orange through pink, yellow, and tan, to light violet. They are all about the same size as USA paper currency. They DO have various holographic and other technology to discourage counterfeiting. The denominations are 20-, 50-, 100-, 200-, 500-, and 1,000- pesos. 1,000 pesos is about $22.50 right now, so 4,000 pesos make $90. At 40- per- dollar it would be $100 per 4000 -- an easier number to "convert" - - but the cheaper peso rate for right now is helping out our purchasing power.
"Tired tires?" One characteristic of the people in this area is
their ability to creatively take "nothing" and make it into
"something." Here is an example of what worn-out motorcycle
tires can become.
Something as basic as a bamboo window lattice is given
a little "pizzazz" by adding some scrap pieces creatively
mitre-cut at each cross joint.
Another "creative lattice" example.
We have recently been watching the construction of a huge
bamboo structure about 6 miles (10 km. - ha!) up the road
from our place.The person standing in front gives an idea
of its size. The rumor is that it will be a guest house. Local
folks can't quite understand it - bamboo on this scale is
expensive to do, and because of termites and rot it will
not last for very long.
Well, it has taken me about a week to put this together so far. I think it's about time to go ahead and publish it. One technical difficulty I'm facing right now is the lack of a camera. My pocket Sanyo finally wore out after more than 4 years of hard use, and the Samsung mini- video camera which Bernadette let me borrow for a while blew its non-replaceable battery. I have "made do" a little bit with the cel phone but I'm looking forward to the arrival of a replacement Sanyo in a few weeks. There are no major vendors like Wal
Mart and Target in our area; and 45 miles away at San Jose, the most-likely camera store had nothing in stock with the features of the Sanyo, although they DID have a fair selection of OTHER name-brand electronic pocket cameras. (DO NOT take for granted the widespread availability of goods whenever you want or need them!!!)
I'll close with a word about Thanksgiving. It's hard for Americans to understand how blessed we have been to grow up in a prosperous, generous, honest country such as the United States was. I'm glad that some of our forbears saw fit to establish such a day as Thanksgiving Day in simple gratitude for the "good and perfect gifts, which come from above." And yes, we will celebrate Thanksgiving Day here with some traditional American cookery, and reflect on the bounties and blessings we have experienced in these past two years.
Wishing you each and all a blessed day!
Tim and Bernadette Larson, Philippines